Knitting Blog

A Tale of Two Increases

“It was the best of increases, it was the worst of increases…”

This article will explain the Make One increase (M1) and the Knit Front and Back increase (KFB). These two increases are typically worked on the right side of the fabric. There are more ways to increase in knitting; these are two common ones. Future blog posts will discuss different increases.

Most knitting patterns don’t describe how to make an increase or where to place them. A pattern might say something like this: …”Inc ea end EOR 4x, then every 4th row 2x.”

The above instruction is interpreted as follows: “Increase each end every other row four times, then (increase each end) every fourth row two times.

M1

A M1 is an increase that uses the running strand of yarn between the stitch on the right hand needle and the stitch on the left hand needle. Occasionally, the designer wants you to do a M1L (Make one left), or a M1R (Make one right). I have found that in most cases, it really isn’t obvious whether or not you have mirrored M1’s; do the one that is easiest for you. If you like to follow the pattern exactly, do the M1L and M1R.

How to do a M1:

Where to place a M1: Because the M1 is created between two stitches, you need to work the M1 after the first stitch of the row and before the last stitch of the row. If you plan to seam the garment, it is a good idea to have two stitches before and after the M1 at each end to make the seaming easier. This makes a very tidy seam. If you are planning to pick up stitches along the sides of a piece that contains a M1, you can place the M1 one or two stitches in from each end. The most important thing about a M1 is that you need to make sure the stitch is twisted so you don’t get a hole.

Why choose a M1? The M1 increase appears flat. If the stitch pattern has a smooth side as the right side of the work, such as stockinette stitch, a M1 shows less than a KFB and is a better choice.

KFB

A Knit Front and Back (KFB) is an increase which is worked by knitting into the front and the back of the same stitch. You are using a stitch in the fabric to create an extra one.

How to do a KFB:

Where to place a KFB: Because we want to have the edges of our knitting to look smooth and in case we will be seaming, it is not a good practice to increase with a KFB on the first or last stitch. Working the KFB is best one stitch in from the beginning of the row and two stitches from the end of the row. In this way, the “bumps” from knitting into the back of the stitch will both appear two stitches in from either end.

Why choose a KFB? The knit front and back is an increase that looks like a knit stitch that has a piggy-backed purl to the left of it. If the instructions tell you to “increase in the next stitch”, it means that you are using a stitch to work an increase, as in the KFB. Since it creates a little bump when you knit into the back of the stitch, it is not the best choice for a smooth fabric such as stockinette or lace. It is ideal for increasing in garter stitch and when you need to increase in ribbing, as the bump mimics the purls already in the ribbing.

Ok, there it is! Two basic increases in knitting, the how, where and why. Get to it!

Martha

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Knitting Blog

Weaving: A Necessary Evil.

“We know not why or what, yet weave, forever weave.”

Weave in, My Hardy Life,  Walt Whitman, 18191892

“I love to weave in ends!” said no knitter ever. As knitters, we love to start a new project, work it, and finish it. Not every knitter, however, loves to weave in the ends when it is done.

As in many aspects of knitting, I have my own self-imposed “rules” regarding ends.

1. Always leave plenty of yarn at any possible seam area, and leave at least 4-6″ worth of yarn in join areas. Remember, you are not “wasting” yarn here, this is actually useful!

2. Do not weave in ends prematurely. If you need to take out any portion of the work, having the ends already woven in makes this task a pain. Seaming is much easier to do before the ends are woven in.

3. Choose the best method of weaving with consideration to the project and where the weave is in the knitting.

Now, there are many ways to weave ends in knitting. Here is the ultimate goal: hide the ends and make it look good. For most seaming, use a blunt tipped tapestry needle. To split the fibers on fine yarns, a sharp tipped tapestry needle is useful. When you have an extremely thick yarn, you may want to split the yarn into more than one strand as this reduces extra bulk in an area. In the back of my mind, I have synonyms for weaving: entwine, incorporate, intertwine, sew, splice, interlace, interlink, merge, move in and out, whip through.

Whenever there is a seam handy, weave ends into the seam.

Weaving  under purl bumps diagonally is a fine, easy, all-purpose weave.

Weaving ends horizontally is also an easy method.

Take care when weaving vertically as this method has a tendency to show through to the right side.

Duplicate stitch weaving is the best for items that are reversible or where the weaving might show otherwise, for instance a very fine gauge and yarn. While a bit trickier than other ways of weaving in ends, it mimics the knit stitch exactly and comes close to being invisible. This is the ultimate.

If you have a lot of ends to weave in, do it while chatting with friends or family to make it seem like less of a chore.

So there you have it! Not so bad, after all. Now go weave in some ends while you are all fired up about it!

Knitting Blog

“Rules” to Knit By: Tips for Knitting Success.(Plus a bonus surprise video!)

There are many ways we can improve our knitting enjoyment when we have just a quick minute to pick up our project. These five tips are designed to help us have more fun and success every time we get the chance to knit.

Tips for Knitting Success

Write it down.

One of the most frustrating things for me as a knitter is having to figure out where I am in my project every time I pick it up. What a drag. I would rather be clicking away with my needles than struggling with the pattern. Taking notes while knitting allows us to be able to pick up any UFO (unfinished object) and quickly find our place. This can save precious time when it comes to grabbing a minute while in a waiting room or other opportunities to get our needles moving. (Notice, I said waiting is an opportunity!)

Consider this scenario: There I am, joyfully knitting away on a baby blanket. The phone rings. A friend has found a fabulous pattern for a summer sweater and I need to look it up on Ravelry NOW! Then, I get to go to my local yarn store, buy some yarn and start a new project. The baby blanket can wait for a day or two. I know exactly where I am in the 24 row lace pattern. (Of course I do!) Two weeks, or 3 months or 4 years go by before I find that blanket at the bottom of my bin of unfinished knitting projects. OK, you see my point. Write it. Write everything.

Some details that come to mind immediately when I think of things to get down on paper are:

Name of the yarn. The label is long gone. Now what? I don’t know the fiber, the washing instructions or the suggested needle size or gauge. I can go to my notes and check. It is helpful to save a label, tie a piece of the yarn to it and tape it to the notes.

Needle size, gauge that I got and the stitch pattern I used to get that gauge. For instance, “Size 8 needle, 4.5 stitches per inch in seed stitch.”

Notes about the pattern. What is the name of the pattern and where did it come from? Is it from a book I own or from Ravelry?

What size am I making? Not all patterns are created equal for size and gauge. Never ever simply assume you are making a “medium”.   

Photocopy personal patterns so you can write notes on them.

This is a key point in many ways. When you have a second copy for yourself, you don’t have to mess up your original copy when you write notes all over it!

Working directly from a book, magazine or booklet means flipping the pages constantly. You can make the pattern darker or enlarge it for easier reading. Using a tablet or phone is not recommended for ease of use; one needs to scribble. You may want to use the same pattern again. Starting with a fresh copy is so much better.

A word here about copying patterns. Never copy a pattern for someone else that is for sale. You are taking money from the designer every time you do this, and it is a violation of copyright law. Stealing is wrong.

Have your own equipment.

I have decided to make a baby hat. I don’t own a size 6 16″ circular needle. I call my friend, drive 17 miles over to her house to borrow it. “Do you need a stitch marker?”, she asks. Of course I do. So the cycle begins. You borrowed a needle. 14 hats later, you are still using that same needle. Your friend is too embarrassed to call you to get it back because now she wants to make a hat. “I don’t think I borrowed a needle from you! I am sure I would have returned it by now!” Whether it is a needle, markers, scissors, needle gauge, etc, you need to have the proper items with you to knit. I even have an extra set of these items in a container to take out to my patio. In the middle of a difficult cable crossing I don’t want to have to get up and find a cable needle. Be self sufficient and get your supplies together.

Make your gauge swatch in several different needle sizes. Keep the swatch for reference.

Gauge, gauge, gauge. There is no way around it. If you need a refresher, please see my previous post: “It really is all about the gauge”. 

Make a tag and put it on your swatch. Needle size, yarn, gauge, etc. If I remember, I put knots in the ends of the swatch for the needle size I am using. 8 knots= Size 8 needle. Keep the swatch forever. No, you are not “wasting” yarn. This is the best use of your yarn! Put all of your swatches in a container together. If you need that little bit of extra yarn at the very end of your project, you have it. What if the knitted item needs a repair in a few years? You have the yarn. Labeled. Good job.

Write it down.

Wait. What? I thought this was the first tip up above! Yes, yes it was. It is also the last tip. You can see how this is a topic that is very close to my knitting heart. What row am I on, what piece of the sweater is this, what on earth is this garment? “I know I will remember everything about this project when I put it down for just a minute…” (or a week, or 2 months or three years…)

Supplies for knitting:

Blunt tip tapestry needle

Round stitch markers

Plastic safety pin style markers

Tape measure

Needle gauge sizer

Scissors

Crochet hook

Pencil or pen

Paper or notebook

Okay, now you have subscribed, saved, bookmarked, etc. As a fun bonus, see how to make a pom pom!

Thanks for enjoying my knitting blog!

KnitYourselfHappy!

Knitting Blog

The knit. The whole knit… Part 2: Log Cabin Style

If you read my last post, you know how much I love the knit stitch and some of the ways it can be your favorite stitch also!

In this article, I will show you the method I use to pick up stitches along the sides and ends of a garter stitch swatch. This can expand your use of the knit, the whole knit, and nothing but the knit!

Picking up along the side edge of garter stitch is fun and easy. Since garter stitch is a square stitch (the height and width of garter is the same), you will pick up a stitch in every other row along the side edges. If you look at the edge of a garter stitch sample, you will see what appears to be “knots” along the side. If you pick up inside every knot it is the same as picking up a stitch in every other row. Instead of placing your needle into this spot, it is so much easier to pick up a single strand between the knots. This makes the picked up edge flat with no bulky garter stitch seam.

The method for picking up stitches along the cast on or bound off edge is also very simple.

Pick up every stitch in garter along a bind off or cast on.

Place your working needle under only one strand of the cast on or bind off as shown in my video below.

“Why would I want to know how to do this?” you ask, you clever dear.

The log cabin style blanket is easy! Make it in wild colors or traditional ones. The method is simple:

  1. Cast on some stitches. Knit a rectangle in garter. Bind off all but the last stitch. This is the middle of the blanket.
  2. Change to a new color, pick up stitches along the side edge as shown above. Knit as much as you want. Bind off all but the last stitch.
  3. Change colors again. Pick up stitches on the side edge of the same rectangle, and the end of the first rectangle. Knit awhile, bind off all but the last stitch.

“Continue in this manner.” (Don’t you just love it when knitting patterns say that?)

You get the picture. Keep going until the blanket is as big as you want.

The blanket can have the same size sections, or mix up the sizes and colors for an original all your own. No rules.

Martha’s Log Cabin

Here are a couple of great projects you can make with this easy and versatile stitchImg_0669_small2.

This is Cousins’ Mitre Square Baby Blanket by Emily Pain on Ravelry. It is a free pattern found here.

 

And here is a picture of the beginning of a Log Cabin style blanket I made. You can use the “recipe” above or see a pattern for it here.  Easy, right?

 

Knitting Blog

The knit. The whole knit. And nothing but the knit. Part 1

Ah, the lowly knit stitch. Usually, the first thing that a new knitter learns is the knit stitch. Then we make a garter stitch scarf or a hat in the round. Sometimes, experienced knitters forget how wonderful this most basic stitch in knitting can be.

The Oxford dictionary defines basic as:

an adjective: Forming an essential foundation or starting point; fundamental.

a noun:  The essential facts or principles of a subject or skill.

The ubiquitous knit stitch is indeed the foundation for everything in knitting. In a way, it even shows us how to purl, considering that the purl stitch is a mirror image of a knit stitch. We can cast on by knitting the stitches onto a needle.

We vary our stitches by manipulating the knit stitch. Everything starts with knit. (Well, actually, everything starts with “e”, but we are talking about knitting here.)

Notice that when we tell people what we are doing with two needle ends and some yarn, we refer to the activity as “knitting”, not “purling”. And it is certainly not weaving, crocheting, quilting or macrame, although some non-crafty people lump all of these things into one big category of “things I don’t know how to do, even though my grandma tried to show me once”.
There are a couple of ways to look at the knit stitch. If you are working a piece flat, back and forth, the fabric that is produced by the knit stitch is referred to as “garter”. This fabric is bumpy on both sides, and has furrows. Mind you, if you worked a flat piece back and forth in all purl, it would still produce garter fabric. (Remember, purl is mirror of knit, so if you only purl a flat piece, you will get the same result as if you only knit a flat piece.)

Poncho a la Mode

Another fabric that consists of only the knit stitch is anything that is joined into the round and worked in knit. In that case, you are only working on the outside of a cylinder of knitting, and piling knits on top of knits in the round produces stockinette stitch. The fabric is smooth on the outside and bumpy on the inside, and without the deep furrows of garter stitch. Think of a knit sock worked in the round. All knit stitch. All on the outside of the stocking. Voila, stockinette stitch.

The Poncho a la Mode is knit in the round in one piece. (Ok, it has some rib at the very beginning so the edge doesn’t curl.)

Martha’s “Mrs. Watson”

 

Even though this is the first stitch we learn, it can create variety of very sophisticated looking items. Some of the most beautiful blankets and shawls are made with only the knit stitch. The “Mrs. Watson” is one great example.

On huge needles, thick yarn for a garter stitch blanket looks like something straight out of a fancy catalog.
Thin yarn on tiny needles is extremely warm and can be the foundation of an amazing shawl.

 

Newport Summer Shrug

 

And, believe it or not, the Newport Summer Shrug is only the knit stitch! There are yarn overs, but isn’t that just a manipulation of the knit? No purling in this one!

Sliding Garter Blanket

And when is a flat piece in all knit stitch not garter? You can manipulate what you are doing by starting a yarn at the other end of a circular knitting needle to create “purl” rows! Check this out! Sliding Garter Blanket. My newest pattern on Ravelry!

 

 

Coming up! In part 2 of this blog about the knit stitch, I will discuss picking up stitches around garter.

Until then, Knit Yourself Happy!

 

 

Knitting Blog

“Fit to be Tied”

Anyone who knows me can tell you that I am not a big shopper. Especially for clothes. No malls, no boutiques, no online perusal of what’s hot to wear this season. I like Levi’s and hand knit sweaters!

Because of the vast variety of TV shows, movies and music that we have at our fingertips at any given moment, it feels like there are always many fashion trends happening at once. Downton Abbey fans are loving the 20’s and 30’s looks of sleek lines and really cute hats. Pop stars have their own unique brands and the stores are quick to fill our needs. What’s old is always new and designers just need to put their own twist into an idea to make it exciting again.

“Originality is nothing but judicious imitation.” -Voltaire

How do knitters make what’s hot right now? Often, by the time a knitting magazine is on the shelves, the trend is sliding away. Thanks to Ravelry, designers can get ideas out there as fast as we can make the garment and write the pattern.

I design many of my own garments myself. For Southern California I like short sleeved cotton sweaters, but we do need the occasional warm sweater also. Often, a student in one of my classes will have a favorite store bought sweater that they would like me to write a pattern for. Most of the time I get ideas by looking at what other people are wearing, sometimes from TV and in shop windows.

So… when one of my students came in with a really cute commercially knit hat, of course I had to make one and write the pattern immediately! This easy, cloche-style hat is over-sized but stylish. It won’t smash your hair, and with the gathered tie, it can be tipped on your head any way you like! Peek out from under one side for a flirty look, or wear the tie in the back or front if you prefer. You can lace a ribbon or silk scarf through the eyelet holes for more variety.

 

Coming up with a name for a new pattern is always a challenge for me… This one seemed easy!

“Fit to be Tied”

Find the pattern here.

 Here it is with a silk scarf woven through the eyelet holes:

I always have some beginning knitters in my classes. What to make? This hat is perfect for a beginner!

Use a long tail cast on

To get started knitting in the round, see my video.

Double point needles are necessary to close the top of the hat.

Of course, don’t forget to fix that little gap that happens at the cast on.

Making an I cord is easy and fun! According to one of my favorite knitting icons, Elizabeth Zimmerman, “I cord” stands for “Idiot cord”. Maybe because it’s easy? Maybe because it is repetitious? Either way, check it out.

So there you have it! “Fit to be Tied”! Yay!