The Mysteries of Blocking

September 28, 2017September 25, 2017 Martha2 Comments

People often ask me what blocking means. In the “olden days”, before there were washable yarns, woolen garments had to be soaked and pinned into shape to get them to look good, and possibly stretch them out a bit to fit the growing child. With newer superwash wool and other fibers, the strict blocking of most garments has gone by the wayside.

Simply laundering the finished knitted item according to the instructions on the ball band is my tried and true method. For a list of explanations about all of the funny looking laundry symbols and their meanings, click here.

I can’t explain some knitters’ fear of taking care of a garment. Have you ever washed a baby or child? Maybe the first bath for a newborn is traumatic for a new parent, but after that first one, it gets easy! Think about it: mild temperature, mild soap, do not twist or wring the baby (sweater), wrap in a towel to dry. Ok, maybe with a garment you might have to wrap it in dry towels a few times to get the extra water out. And perhaps you won’t lay the baby flat to dry, but you get the idea, right?

Most superwash wool can be laundered in the machine on gentle, low temperature and put in the dryer on a low heat setting. I KNOW! Who knew? Actually, superwash wool is a wool fiber that has been specially treated to make it washable. Again, the band on the yarn will let you know what to do about laundering. If you don’t know what fiber the fabric is, it is always acceptable to hand wash the item like a baby. You can always place a damp item on a towel to dry, changing the towel every once in awhile as it soaks up moisture.

Since I live in Southern California, I have a lot of cotton sweaters. I wash them with Eucalan in the machine on a gentle cycle. If they seem really wet when I remove them from the washer, I place them in the dryer for about 5-10 minutes.

Occasionally, knitters come across a yarn label that says dry clean only. Well, that’s up to you. Sometimes I believe that the manufacturer is covering their (bases) so that they don’t get in trouble when you accidentally wash the item in hot water and place it in a hot dryer, and you get a sweater for your dog. I have never sent any hand knit item to the dry cleaner.

The only time that I really “block” something is when it is lace.

You will need:

A sink or basin to soak the item. I have a top loading washing machine, so for larger items, I use that as my sink.

A few old bath towels.

Plenty of rust proof pins. If you don’t know if they are rust proof, buy new ones. Ask me how I know.

Optional: Non rinse wool wash.

Optional: Get yourself a pack of four large foam floor tiles at your local big box store, or online. These are exceedingly cheap, easy to store and wipe clean.

Method:

Soak the piece in room temperature water for at least 20 minutes. This allows the knitting to absorb the water fully and relax in the water. You can squish it with your hands if you like. (I personally love squishing my knitting!) Unless the item needs a cleaning, plain water is fine. You may add some non-rinse wool wash such as Eucalan. I do not recommend the grocery store wool wash.

Drain the water, roll the item in clean, old towels to get all of the excess moisture out. Why old towels? If they have had plenty of use then the color of the towel will not get on the garment. If the yarn has excess dye in it, you won’t have to worry if it gets on the old towel.

Now comes the fun part! Using your foam mats or clean carpet, pin out the lace starting at the middle top and bottom and work your way out to the edges and sides. Use lots of pins and push the garment gently with your hands to open the lace work and straighten the edges. Pay special attention to any points or curves, stretching the points gently and using more pins around curves. You will have to go back over the work several times to get everything lined up and satisfactory. Make sure you don’t have dimple marks where the pins are holding the knitting. Don’t pull the knitting out too far to stretch the item bigger, as this puts excess strain on the fiber.

Let the piece dry completely. And by completely, I mean ALL THE WAY! You can’t be in a hurry for this step. Place a fan on the item if you live in a humid area. This sets the stitches into position, and they should hold until you wear the garment a lot or need to launder it again.

So there it is. Difficult? No. You can’t hurt the knitting. It doesn’t say “owie” when you put the pins in it. Like a baby, it likes a bath to keep it fresh.

Now you know how! Try it! -Martha

Knitting Blog

Do the Twist! German Twisted Cast On

September 21, 2017 Martha4 Comments

Of course, there are many ways to cast on…

One of my favorite cast ons lately is the German Twisted Cast On. (Don’t ask me why it is called “German”, maybe it originated there!)

This cast on is a variation of a long tail cast on. It is stretchier than a regular long tail cast on, so it is especially good for the top of a sock, the beginning of a mitten cuff, or a hat cuff.

If you find that your own regular long tail cast on tends to be a bit too tight (yes, you are out there!), try the German Twisted Cast On instead.

I have two ways of showing students how to do this cast on. Some people find this way of casting on a bit challenging, so take a look at these two videos which both produce the same German Twisted Cast On.

While this cast on takes a bit more time and practice, the result is worth it.

Remember, Knit Yourself Happy! Martha

Knitting Blog

Picking up stitches in garter. (And seed stitch too!)

August 29, 2017August 29, 2017 Martha1 Comment

There are so many wonderful projects that require the knitter to pick up stitches along a garter or seed stitch square or rectangle.

A couple of projects that come to mind right away are a mitered square blanket and a log cabin style blanket.

Picking up stitches on the sides of a garter or seed stitch portion of knitting is a bit different than picking up stitches along the side edges of stockinette. I like to go under only one strand of yarn between the “bumps” along the side. Garter stitch and seed stitch are essentially the same in height (rows) as they are in width (number of stitches). If you pick up every other stitch in this way, the numbers work out perfectly. When you only go under one strand, there is less bulk on the wrong side of the fabric, making this the perfect way to have flat joins for a blanket.

Picking up stitches along the cast on and bound off edges is also very easy to do. Again, using only one strand of the cast on or bound off edge helps reduce bulk in the picked up seam.

Once you get the hang of this technique, you will have SO MUCH FUN making items that require picked up stitches along the borders of garter and seed stitch!!

KnitYourselfHappy!

Martha

Knitting Blog

Your LYS

August 4, 2017August 5, 2017 Martha4 Comments

Your Local Yarn Store

Such an important place in your life; and your local yarn store needs you!

You may have heard of “Small Business Saturday,” or the “Shop Small” movement, wherein we consumers are encouraged to visit and buy from local businesses. The short summary is that shopping in small local businesses not only fosters a local economy, but offers a sense of community. While this is often advertised as an antithesis to big chains, your local yarn store can benefit too!

Here is why you should support your local yarn store by purchasing goods and services through them.

Usually, your yarn store is owned by a small business entrepreneur, someone we grow to know, rely upon for advice, and upon whom we depend. That could be the only reason to buy products, but wait, there’s more!

A typical yarn store is a warm, welcoming environment for knitters to browse through yarn, needles, and accessories. It offers the knitter the chance to see colors in person, browse new publications, and best of all: TOUCH all of the beautiful, sumptuous yarns! Your store also has completed knitted items on display! This offers first-hand inspiration: you can look at completed items, try them on, or even enjoy them for their whimsical value! Most of the time, the items have been knit by someone in the store for you to experience. Another great benefit to shopping small at the local yarn store is other knitters –more inspiration! More ways to connect with some great humans!

So how does this all happen?

Well, the local yarn store does not magically run itself! (Which conjures some wonderfully imaginative ideas!) Nope, your local yarn store is managed by that dearly beloved entrepreneur we thought of earlier.

If you didn’t have a store owner that is willing to stock the shelves with available yarn, how could you check out a yarn in person? How could you touch it and experience its wonderfulness? Think about it. To make this happen, the owner has to pay cash up-front to have stock on hand for you. Next, she wants to sell the stock so she can:

Buy more yarn, needles and tools for you to enjoy and explore.
Keep paying the rent for the cute little nook where you knit in your class.
Pay the electric bill so you can see the yarn, keep warm in the cold winter months, and cool when it is hot. (Because we die-hard knitters know that the knitting never ceases!)
Pay employees to help you. After all, the owner can’t be there all the time!

Now, of course, your store cannot purchase every yarn in the universe. But there is probably a similar yarn in the store for your project.

So with the shop small mentality in mind, I personally encourage you support your local yarn store! Your patronage keeps the business running, keeps your friends coming back to class, and keeps your talented teachers and knowledgeable staff employed. I could start a soapbox about never ever using your local yarn store to peruse items, then going home only to order the items online because it is “cheaper.” That, my friends, is detrimental to your local store, and sadly equivalent to stealing valuable business and resources from the local store you call home. You know what I mean. (Steps down off soapbox…)

So, think of your local yarn store whenever you sit down with your beautiful yarn and needles, visit your local store soon and remember to KnitYourselfHappy!

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Knitting Blog

Those Hot Summer Knits

July 20, 2017July 20, 2017 Martha1 Comment

I have heard a terrible rumor! Can it be true? (Whisper voice.) Some people actually stop knitting during the summer!! What? I know, unbelievable, right?

Those of us who are dedicated to knitting are horrified by this thought. Here are the two main reasons why people choose to stop knitting during the summer months. I will attempt to debunk them.

The number 1 reason people give is: “It’s too hot to knit.” Well, yes, it is definitely too hot to knit a wool blanket at the beach. I usually don’t knit anything that has to rest on my lap. This is the killer. While that baby blanket may seem small, at some point, the knitting will hit your lap and then you are doomed. Yes, that is hot, hot, hot. If there is a baby shower coming up or you must get that blanket done before your little one goes off to college, try resting the blanket on a table. This makes a world of difference. I usually knit smaller items like

and ornaments (yes),

when it is too hot to knit the giant wool sweater.

And… speaking of wool. Non-knitters might think that working with wool on a small project is hot. Not the case! As knitters know, wool has the wonderful capability of wicking moisture away from the skin. It takes a lot to soak wool. I also love to work with cotton, bamboo, linen, hemp and silk, none of which I would call warm. Since I am a (complete) yarn “snob”, I rarely work with 100% acrylic yarn, and that is the yarn I consider to be the hottest of all hot-feeling fibers on the face of the Earth. Talk about sweaty!

The second reason a person might say that they don’t knit in the summer is because they are too busy. What? So, there you are, on the plane or in the car going to your vacation spot, lake, family gathering. Knit away! The plane and the car (passengers only, please) are the two most wonderful places to knit. Many people think that you can’t take knitting needles on a plane, but I always do. The only time I have heard of people having problems with knitting needles on a plane is traveling in countries other than the US. I fly within the US and I have never had a problem.

Having a cocktail or glass of wine on the front porch? Knit! Summer concerts in the park deserve a knitting project. Waiting or watching the young ones at various summer sports or swimming lessons can be a bonus opportunity to knit. Get into the habit of having a small, easy project close by so you can chat and knit at the same time. Ok, so you might not be working on your favorite lace shawl, but what about a hat for a charity, a new baby, or as Christmas and birthday gifts?

The moral of this story? You can guess. Don’t Stop Knitting in the Summer! Just don’t.

Knityourselfhappy

Knitting Blog

Backwards Loop Cast On and Long Tail Cast On

June 20, 2017June 20, 2017 Martha1 Comment

So many cast ons, so little time… Two of the MCCOs (Most Common Cast Ons): the Backwards Loop Cast On and the Long Tail Cast On.

Beginning knitters are usually taught how to do a “backwards loop” cast on first. Other names for this cast on are: e-wrap, thumb, half hitch, and loop. Whew. I am sure there are many more names for this easy cast on, depending on where you live and who taught you to knit, but I will leave it up to you to find more. I am slightly dizzy after thinking of just those few. A backwards loop cast on begins with a slip knot:

There are pros and cons to the backwards loop cast on. This cast on can become very loose if the needles are pulled too far apart during the first row of knitting. Consistency in the loops is difficult to maintain, but it is by far the easiest cast on to master, especially for young children learning to knit. Because the edge is likely to be loose, it is a good cast on for underarms or necklines with the knitting already in progress. Usually these areas are finished with a seam or edging, so the e wrap cast on will not be visible.

The “long tail cast on” is probably the most common of all cast ons. Other names for this cast on are two strand, thumb, and sling shot. It makes a decent looking edge, it is fairly stretchy and it can be done quite quickly once learned. It is a bit tricky for the newest knitters, and takes a bit of practice to get it even and loose. I have almost never seen a long tail cast on that is too loose; usually the problem with this cast on is that it is too tight. Because you are working with two strands of yarn, (the “working” yarn and the “tail”), this cast on cannot be done with the work in progress unless you are willing to add another piece of yarn as the tail, and that is just a bit silly, now, isn’t it?

The chief query among knitters is “How long should the tail be?” In short, nobody knows. Sorry about that. There are myriad tricks for estimating tail length, from wrapping the yarn around the needle, estimating 1″ of tail for every stitch and so on. Because I have been doing this a long time, I will confess: I just guess. If I waste some yarn by guessing too much, oh well. I usually only run out of the long tail when the yarn is very bulky. (Big yarn, big needles, more long tail is needed.) The thumb seems to use less yarn than the forefinger, so one tip is to place the tail over the thumb and the working yarn over the forefinger. You can also try estimating how many inches the cast on will be and triple that number for the length of the tail. So, a scarf that is 8 inches wide would need 24 inches worth of tail. You are welcome to experiment with any method you like!! Get back to me when you have the definitive answer! Finally, if you are casting on a lot of stitches, (say more than 90), and the yarn is precious, use two skeins of yarn, one as the “tail” and one as the “working yarn”.

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Knit Yourself Happy!