Those Hot Summer Knits

July 20, 2017July 20, 2017 Martha1 Comment

I have heard a terrible rumor! Can it be true? (Whisper voice.) Some people actually stop knitting during the summer!! What? I know, unbelievable, right?

Those of us who are dedicated to knitting are horrified by this thought. Here are the two main reasons why people choose to stop knitting during the summer months. I will attempt to debunk them.

The number 1 reason people give is: “It’s too hot to knit.” Well, yes, it is definitely too hot to knit a wool blanket at the beach. I usually don’t knit anything that has to rest on my lap. This is the killer. While that baby blanket may seem small, at some point, the knitting will hit your lap and then you are doomed. Yes, that is hot, hot, hot. If there is a baby shower coming up or you must get that blanket done before your little one goes off to college, try resting the blanket on a table. This makes a world of difference. I usually knit smaller items like

and ornaments (yes),

when it is too hot to knit the giant wool sweater.

And… speaking of wool. Non-knitters might think that working with wool on a small project is hot. Not the case! As knitters know, wool has the wonderful capability of wicking moisture away from the skin. It takes a lot to soak wool. I also love to work with cotton, bamboo, linen, hemp and silk, none of which I would call warm. Since I am a (complete) yarn “snob”, I rarely work with 100% acrylic yarn, and that is the yarn I consider to be the hottest of all hot-feeling fibers on the face of the Earth. Talk about sweaty!

The second reason a person might say that they don’t knit in the summer is because they are too busy. What? So, there you are, on the plane or in the car going to your vacation spot, lake, family gathering. Knit away! The plane and the car (passengers only, please) are the two most wonderful places to knit. Many people think that you can’t take knitting needles on a plane, but I always do. The only time I have heard of people having problems with knitting needles on a plane is traveling in countries other than the US. I fly within the US and I have never had a problem.

Having a cocktail or glass of wine on the front porch? Knit! Summer concerts in the park deserve a knitting project. Waiting or watching the young ones at various summer sports or swimming lessons can be a bonus opportunity to knit. Get into the habit of having a small, easy project close by so you can chat and knit at the same time. Ok, so you might not be working on your favorite lace shawl, but what about a hat for a charity, a new baby, or as Christmas and birthday gifts?

The moral of this story? You can guess. Don’t Stop Knitting in the Summer! Just don’t.

Knityourselfhappy

Knitting Blog

Backwards Loop Cast On and Long Tail Cast On

June 20, 2017June 20, 2017 Martha1 Comment

So many cast ons, so little time… Two of the MCCOs (Most Common Cast Ons): the Backwards Loop Cast On and the Long Tail Cast On.

Beginning knitters are usually taught how to do a “backwards loop” cast on first. Other names for this cast on are: e-wrap, thumb, half hitch, and loop. Whew. I am sure there are many more names for this easy cast on, depending on where you live and who taught you to knit, but I will leave it up to you to find more. I am slightly dizzy after thinking of just those few. A backwards loop cast on begins with a slip knot:

There are pros and cons to the backwards loop cast on. This cast on can become very loose if the needles are pulled too far apart during the first row of knitting. Consistency in the loops is difficult to maintain, but it is by far the easiest cast on to master, especially for young children learning to knit. Because the edge is likely to be loose, it is a good cast on for underarms or necklines with the knitting already in progress. Usually these areas are finished with a seam or edging, so the e wrap cast on will not be visible.

The “long tail cast on” is probably the most common of all cast ons. Other names for this cast on are two strand, thumb, and sling shot. It makes a decent looking edge, it is fairly stretchy and it can be done quite quickly once learned. It is a bit tricky for the newest knitters, and takes a bit of practice to get it even and loose. I have almost never seen a long tail cast on that is too loose; usually the problem with this cast on is that it is too tight. Because you are working with two strands of yarn, (the “working” yarn and the “tail”), this cast on cannot be done with the work in progress unless you are willing to add another piece of yarn as the tail, and that is just a bit silly, now, isn’t it?

The chief query among knitters is “How long should the tail be?” In short, nobody knows. Sorry about that. There are myriad tricks for estimating tail length, from wrapping the yarn around the needle, estimating 1″ of tail for every stitch and so on. Because I have been doing this a long time, I will confess: I just guess. If I waste some yarn by guessing too much, oh well. I usually only run out of the long tail when the yarn is very bulky. (Big yarn, big needles, more long tail is needed.) The thumb seems to use less yarn than the forefinger, so one tip is to place the tail over the thumb and the working yarn over the forefinger. You can also try estimating how many inches the cast on will be and triple that number for the length of the tail. So, a scarf that is 8 inches wide would need 24 inches worth of tail. You are welcome to experiment with any method you like!! Get back to me when you have the definitive answer! Finally, if you are casting on a lot of stitches, (say more than 90), and the yarn is precious, use two skeins of yarn, one as the “tail” and one as the “working yarn”.

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Knit Yourself Happy!

Knitting Blog

A Tale of Two Increases

May 18, 2017May 18, 2017 Martha1 Comment

“It was the best of increases, it was the worst of increases…”

This article will explain the Make One increase (M1) and the Knit Front and Back increase (KFB). These two increases are typically worked on the right side of the fabric. There are more ways to increase in knitting; these are two common ones. Future blog posts will discuss different increases.

Most knitting patterns don’t describe how to make an increase or where to place them. A pattern might say something like this: …”Inc ea end EOR 4x, then every 4th row 2x.”

The above instruction is interpreted as follows: “Increase each end every other row four times, then (increase each end) every fourth row two times.

M1

A M1 is an increase that uses the running strand of yarn between the stitch on the right hand needle and the stitch on the left hand needle. Occasionally, the designer wants you to do a M1L (Make one left), or a M1R (Make one right). I have found that in most cases, it really isn’t obvious whether or not you have mirrored M1’s; do the one that is easiest for you. If you like to follow the pattern exactly, do the M1L and M1R.

How to do a M1:

Where to place a M1: Because the M1 is created between two stitches, you need to work the M1 after the first stitch of the row and before the last stitch of the row. If you plan to seam the garment, it is a good idea to have two stitches before and after the M1 at each end to make the seaming easier. This makes a very tidy seam. If you are planning to pick up stitches along the sides of a piece that contains a M1, you can place the M1 one or two stitches in from each end. The most important thing about a M1 is that you need to make sure the stitch is twisted so you don’t get a hole.

Why choose a M1? The M1 increase appears flat. If the stitch pattern has a smooth side as the right side of the work, such as stockinette stitch, a M1 shows less than a KFB and is a better choice.

KFB

A Knit Front and Back (KFB) is an increase which is worked by knitting into the front and the back of the same stitch. You are using a stitch in the fabric to create an extra one.

How to do a KFB:

Where to place a KFB: Because we want to have the edges of our knitting to look smooth and in case we will be seaming, it is not a good practice to increase with a KFB on the first or last stitch. Working the KFB is best one stitch in from the beginning of the row and two stitches from the end of the row. In this way, the “bumps” from knitting into the back of the stitch will both appear two stitches in from either end.

Why choose a KFB? The knit front and back is an increase that looks like a knit stitch that has a piggy-backed purl to the left of it. If the instructions tell you to “increase in the next stitch”, it means that you are using a stitch to work an increase, as in the KFB. Since it creates a little bump when you knit into the back of the stitch, it is not the best choice for a smooth fabric such as stockinette or lace. It is ideal for increasing in garter stitch and when you need to increase in ribbing, as the bump mimics the purls already in the ribbing.

Ok, there it is! Two basic increases in knitting, the how, where and why. Get to it!

Martha

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Knitting Blog

Weaving: A Necessary Evil.

May 2, 2017May 2, 2017 Martha3 Comments

“We know not why or what, yet weave, forever weave.”

–Weave in, My Hardy Life, Walt Whitman, 1819 – 1892

“I love to weave in ends!” said no knitter ever. As knitters, we love to start a new project, work it, and finish it. Not every knitter, however, loves to weave in the ends when it is done.

As in many aspects of knitting, I have my own self-imposed “rules” regarding ends.

1. Always leave plenty of yarn at any possible seam area, and leave at least 4-6″ worth of yarn in join areas. Remember, you are not “wasting” yarn here, this is actually useful!

2. Do not weave in ends prematurely. If you need to take out any portion of the work, having the ends already woven in makes this task a pain. Seaming is much easier to do before the ends are woven in.

3. Choose the best method of weaving with consideration to the project and where the weave is in the knitting.

Now, there are many ways to weave ends in knitting. Here is the ultimate goal: hide the ends and make it look good. For most seaming, use a blunt tipped tapestry needle. To split the fibers on fine yarns, a sharp tipped tapestry needle is useful. When you have an extremely thick yarn, you may want to split the yarn into more than one strand as this reduces extra bulk in an area. In the back of my mind, I have synonyms for weaving: entwine, incorporate, intertwine, sew, splice, interlace, interlink, merge, move in and out, whip through.

Whenever there is a seam handy, weave ends into the seam.

Weaving under purl bumps diagonally is a fine, easy, all-purpose weave.

Weaving ends horizontally is also an easy method.

Take care when weaving vertically as this method has a tendency to show through to the right side.

Duplicate stitch weaving is the best for items that are reversible or where the weaving might show otherwise, for instance a very fine gauge and yarn. While a bit trickier than other ways of weaving in ends, it mimics the knit stitch exactly and comes close to being invisible. This is the ultimate.

If you have a lot of ends to weave in, do it while chatting with friends or family to make it seem like less of a chore.

So there you have it! Not so bad, after all. Now go weave in some ends while you are all fired up about it!

Knitting Blog

“Rules” to Knit By: Tips for Knitting Success.(Plus a bonus surprise video!)

April 6, 2017April 8, 2017 Martha6 Comments

There are many ways we can improve our knitting enjoyment when we have just a quick minute to pick up our project. These five tips are designed to help us have more fun and success every time we get the chance to knit.

Tips for Knitting Success

Write it down.

One of the most frustrating things for me as a knitter is having to figure out where I am in my project every time I pick it up. What a drag. I would rather be clicking away with my needles than struggling with the pattern. Taking notes while knitting allows us to be able to pick up any UFO (unfinished object) and quickly find our place. This can save precious time when it comes to grabbing a minute while in a waiting room or other opportunities to get our needles moving. (Notice, I said waiting is an opportunity!)

Consider this scenario: There I am, joyfully knitting away on a baby blanket. The phone rings. A friend has found a fabulous pattern for a summer sweater and I need to look it up on Ravelry NOW! Then, I get to go to my local yarn store, buy some yarn and start a new project. The baby blanket can wait for a day or two. I know exactly where I am in the 24 row lace pattern. (Of course I do!) Two weeks, or 3 months or 4 years go by before I find that blanket at the bottom of my bin of unfinished knitting projects. OK, you see my point. Write it. Write everything.

Some details that come to mind immediately when I think of things to get down on paper are:

Name of the yarn. The label is long gone. Now what? I don’t know the fiber, the washing instructions or the suggested needle size or gauge. I can go to my notes and check. It is helpful to save a label, tie a piece of the yarn to it and tape it to the notes.

Needle size, gauge that I got and the stitch pattern I used to get that gauge. For instance, “Size 8 needle, 4.5 stitches per inch in seed stitch.”

Notes about the pattern. What is the name of the pattern and where did it come from? Is it from a book I own or from Ravelry?

What size am I making? Not all patterns are created equal for size and gauge. Never ever simply assume you are making a “medium”.

Photocopy personal patterns so you can write notes on them.

This is a key point in many ways. When you have a second copy for yourself, you don’t have to mess up your original copy when you write notes all over it!

Working directly from a book, magazine or booklet means flipping the pages constantly. You can make the pattern darker or enlarge it for easier reading. Using a tablet or phone is not recommended for ease of use; one needs to scribble. You may want to use the same pattern again. Starting with a fresh copy is so much better.

A word here about copying patterns. Never copy a pattern for someone else that is for sale. You are taking money from the designer every time you do this, and it is a violation of copyright law. Stealing is wrong.

Have your own equipment.

I have decided to make a baby hat. I don’t own a size 6 16″ circular needle. I call my friend, drive 17 miles over to her house to borrow it. “Do you need a stitch marker?”, she asks. Of course I do. So the cycle begins. You borrowed a needle. 14 hats later, you are still using that same needle. Your friend is too embarrassed to call you to get it back because now she wants to make a hat. “I don’t think I borrowed a needle from you! I am sure I would have returned it by now!” Whether it is a needle, markers, scissors, needle gauge, etc, you need to have the proper items with you to knit. I even have an extra set of these items in a container to take out to my patio. In the middle of a difficult cable crossing I don’t want to have to get up and find a cable needle. Be self sufficient and get your supplies together.

Make your gauge swatch in several different needle sizes. Keep the swatch for reference.

Gauge, gauge, gauge. There is no way around it. If you need a refresher, please see my previous post: “It really is all about the gauge”.

Make a tag and put it on your swatch. Needle size, yarn, gauge, etc. If I remember, I put knots in the ends of the swatch for the needle size I am using. 8 knots= Size 8 needle. Keep the swatch forever. No, you are not “wasting” yarn. This is the best use of your yarn! Put all of your swatches in a container together. If you need that little bit of extra yarn at the very end of your project, you have it. What if the knitted item needs a repair in a few years? You have the yarn. Labeled. Good job.

Write it down.

Wait. What? I thought this was the first tip up above! Yes, yes it was. It is also the last tip. You can see how this is a topic that is very close to my knitting heart. What row am I on, what piece of the sweater is this, what on earth is this garment? “I know I will remember everything about this project when I put it down for just a minute…” (or a week, or 2 months or three years…)

Supplies for knitting:

Blunt tip tapestry needle

Round stitch markers

Plastic safety pin style markers

Tape measure

Needle gauge sizer

Scissors

Crochet hook

Pencil or pen

Paper or notebook

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Thanks for enjoying my knitting blog!

KnitYourselfHappy!

Knitting Blog

The knit. The whole knit… Part 2: Log Cabin Style

March 21, 2017March 21, 2017 Martha1 Comment

If you read my last post, you know how much I love the knit stitch and some of the ways it can be your favorite stitch also!

In this article, I will show you the method I use to pick up stitches along the sides and ends of a garter stitch swatch. This can expand your use of the knit, the whole knit, and nothing but the knit!

Picking up along the side edge of garter stitch is fun and easy. Since garter stitch is a square stitch (the height and width of garter is the same), you will pick up a stitch in every other row along the side edges. If you look at the edge of a garter stitch sample, you will see what appears to be “knots” along the side. If you pick up inside every knot it is the same as picking up a stitch in every other row. Instead of placing your needle into this spot, it is so much easier to pick up a single strand between the knots. This makes the picked up edge flat with no bulky garter stitch seam.

The method for picking up stitches along the cast on or bound off edge is also very simple.

Pick up every stitch in garter along a bind off or cast on.

Place your working needle under only one strand of the cast on or bind off as shown in my video below.

“Why would I want to know how to do this?” you ask, you clever dear.

The log cabin style blanket is easy! Make it in wild colors or traditional ones. The method is simple:

Cast on some stitches. Knit a rectangle in garter. Bind off all but the last stitch. This is the middle of the blanket.
Change to a new color, pick up stitches along the side edge as shown above. Knit as much as you want. Bind off all but the last stitch.
Change colors again. Pick up stitches on the side edge of the same rectangle, and the end of the first rectangle. Knit awhile, bind off all but the last stitch.

“Continue in this manner.” (Don’t you just love it when knitting patterns say that?)

You get the picture. Keep going until the blanket is as big as you want.

The blanket can have the same size sections, or mix up the sizes and colors for an original all your own. No rules.

Here are a couple of great projects you can make with this easy and versatile stitch.

This is Cousins’ Mitre Square Baby Blanket by Emily Pain on Ravelry. It is a free pattern found here.

And here is a picture of the beginning of a Log Cabin style blanket I made. You can use the “recipe” above or see a pattern for it here. Easy, right?